The Elements of Dessert

"The world of pastry rejoices; Francisco shows us once againthat there is still much to say in this profession, and this bookis an honest reflection of a person who does not lose sight oftradition, even when working from a contemporary and modernperspective. Perfection, technique, philosophy, purity,and above all a very personal aesthetic defines thiswork in all of its aspects." Ferran and AlbertAdriá Barcelona, Spain

"In The Elements of Dessert, Chef Migoya displays hisskillful and learned approach to producing today′s most innovativepastry. Included is a plethora of new techniques, new flavorcombinations, reinterpretations of form, and forward–thinkingdesign overall, a pleasure to behold." EnricRovira owner, Enric Rovira Xocolates de Barcelona, Barcelona,Spain

"The Elements of Dessertis a work that goes well beyondtechniques and recipes; it will help the reader understand how andwhy things work. The greatness of Chef Migoya is his ability toexplain the complicated in a simple way. This is one of the mostdetailed, reliable, and honest books ever printed aboutdessert." Olivier Fernández Director, EPGB(Escola de Pastisseria del Gremi de Barcelona The Guild ofBarcelona Pastry School), Barcelona, Spain

"Francisco Migoya has presented us with this compilation of theknowledge accumulated over decades, and distilled it with hisbrilliant eye. The Elements of Dessertwill be an indispensable bookin the kitchens and libraries of gastronomeseverywhere." Andoni Luis Aduriz chef and owner,Mugaritz restaurant, Errenteria, Spain

"The Elements of Dessertis the book I searched for as a youngcook, looking for answers and inspiration, and the book I will nowturn to for the same reasons. Chef Migoya has created a powerfulnew tool for our trade and has a masterful way of explaining andpresenting techniques and ideas." Johnny Iuzzinipastry chef and head judge, Top Chef Just Desserts, New York, NewYork

"Every page makes you stop and think twice. Francisco Migoya′sbooks always push the envelope on the most cutting–edge techniquesand ingredient combinations. Behind the elegant plating and thesimple organization, every recipe has great depth and is a greatsource of inspiration for chefs and serious cooksalike." Dominique Ansel chef and owner, DominiqueAnsel Bakery, New York, New York

"I knew of Francisco Migoya′s work before I met him in person.He and his work are fully interconnected and in perfect balance: inhim is an image of what he does, and his work shows us who he is.He is a great source of information and knowledge, and he willcontinue to delight us with his advice, techniques, recipes, andpresentations. I want to thank you, Francisco, for what we haveseen and for what we have yet to see." Carles Mampelchef and owner, Bub Pastisseria, Barcelona, Spain

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS vi

INTRODUCTION vi

Ch1 The Basic Elements 1

Ch2 Pre–Desserts 105

Ch3 Plated Desserts 163

Ch4 Dessert Buffets 261

Ch5 Passed–Around Desserts 331

Ch6 Cakes (Entremets) 381

Ch7 Petits Fours (Mignardises) 449

BIBLIOGRAPHY 519

RESOURCES 520

INDEX 522

Francisco J. Migoya is a professor at The CulinaryInstitute of America, teaching the Café Operations class forthe baking and pastry arts degree programs. He is also in charge ofthe Apple Pie Bakery Café, the CIA′s busiest public restaurantoperation. Before joining the CIA, he was executive pastry chef atThomas Keller′s The French Laundry, Bouchon Bakery, and BouchonBistro. He has also worked as a pastry chef at such New York Cityrestaurants as Veritas, Ilo, and The River Café.

Founded in 1946, The Culinary Institute of America is anindependent, not–for–profit college offering bachelor′s andassociate degrees in culinary arts and baking and pastry arts, aswell as certificate programs in Latin cuisines and wine andbeverage studies. A network of more than 44,000 alumni has helpedthe CIA earn its reputation as the world′s premier culinarycollege. The CIA, which also offers courses for professionals andfood enthusiasts, as well as consulting services for thefoodservice and hospitality industry, has campuses in Hyde Park,New York; St. Helena, California; San Antonio, Texas; andSingapore.

Without a doubt, the must–have gift for the serious baker,professional or aspiring pro–pastry chef on your holiday list isFrancisco Migoya s Elements of Dessert. How canI say that with such confidence? Two reasons: 1) Having seen theway other accomplished pastry chefs interact with Francisco Migoyaat different industry events over the last three years, suchas StarChefs and Top 10 Pastry Chef Awards Migoya isclearly someone they admire and respect. And 2) Because none otherthan Michael Laiskonis, Creative Director of theInstitute of Culinary Education (ICE) and generally regardedas one of the top pastry chefs in the US told me

Francisco Migoya is probaby the most important pastrychef in America right now high praise indeed!

Part pastry school textbook, part coffee table book, this is amonster 537 page volume that provides the blueprints for hundreds of different desserts in every dessert category. Asidefrom the recipes and guidelines for petite fours, pre–desserts,dessert buffets and cakes, the book also has many adventurous andfun plated dessert recipes, such as Warm pandan leaf–infused caramelized cream, black sesame genoa bread, hibiscusglaze, popcorn shoot (all part of the same dessert).

The book truly covers all the bases. As the review on StarChefs,who recently named it one of the top books of 2012, notes:

[the book] delves succinctly into the creaming method,the custard method, the time and place for a meringue, the properapproach to composed cheese courses The starkly beautifulpictures of Migoya s modernist creations are, so to speak,the icing on the intricately composed cake

As I mentioned, Migoya is frequently sought after for his adviceon both the technical and aesthetic aspects of pastry. JosephBaker, a well–known pastry chef and a Pastry and Bakinginstructor at Le Cordon Blue in Dallas TX, who is oftenconsulted on advanced baking issues himself, said this about Migoyaand his book

He [Migoya] is actually the reason I now teach. He shareshis creations and improves the overall landscape of food. ChefMigoya is a true pioneer in our industry and his book, TheElements of Dessert, is a perfect guide to contemporarypastry any Migoya book is a must have.

One of his former students at the Culinary Institute ofAmerica (CIA) echoed those sentiments:

[Migoya] brings an intensity [to his work] that few of myother instructors could match in my time there. So much so that Iwas afraid of him for some time! DessertBuzz

Even in a long career, it′s never a bad idea to brush up on thebasics, especially when it comes to pastry. The Elements of Dessertdoes just that, and no wonder. It′s written by CIA Chef Instructorand International Chefs Congress Presenter Francisco Migoya, whodelves succinctly into the creaming method, the custard method, thetime and place for a meringue, the proper approach to composedcheese courses, and the various types of dough. Heck, it even has ashort section on the method for tasting food, in caseyou were doing it wrong (hint: you might have been, as Migoyaoffers a spreadsheet on flavor compatibility and frontalversus background flavors ). But it also offers hundreds ofbrilliantly confounding and innovative recipes, from plateddesserts to mignardises and entremets and even dessert buffets. Thestarkly beautiful pictures of Migoya s modernist creationsare, so to speak, the icing on the intricately composed cake. byNicholas Rummell StarChefs